[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Lucca, the food heart of Toscana

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Lucca, the food heart of Toscana

It is difficult to rate Toscana - as in every part, you find special dishes which continue to surprise and please you. Safe to say, it IS the food bowl of Italy. At least it is up there with Emilia Romana.

We had the good fortune to be 'gli ospiti' of Samuela & Vittorio from Lucca. What an elegant city! The Lucchese take pride in their cuisine - from Restaurant, Trattoria, to the small food deli, you can eat well! In my element, surrounded by foodies, each evening was a gastronomic revelation. 

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Sorrento, bathing with the fish

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Sorrento, bathing with the fish

Bathing here is so civilised you could make it a pastime . Leonelli, established three generations ago, was recommended as the place to bathe - reason being - why people come from all over the Country to eat here!!! 


So it's not just about throwing your towel on the sand and taking your chances with the elements? On arrival you hire a lettino and umbrella, park yourself comfortably in the midst of the ancient cliff face, dip in the ' if you have not experienced it, do so before you die' water , swimming with your lunch, so to speak. Yes this is how fresh the fruits of the sea are presented for our midday meal.

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Casamonti, Pretty pigs, Chianti wine + Olive Oil

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Casamonti, Pretty pigs, Chianti wine + Olive Oil

The hill town of Castellina in Chianti is a 'jewel' with ancient underground corridors (see photo) where religious ceremonies were conducted in Medieval times. More recently they have been used for cantinas, small bars and eateries. A few kilometres out of town, we visited a superb example of agricultural purism - Casamonti owned by Raymonde Lamonthe and his wife Anna Rita. They specialise in olive oil, Chianti wine and Cinta Senese pigs, a very special breed which they have saved from extinction. 
The olive oil is produced from 4 olive varieties. 

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - San Fabiano, dinner a triumph for Count Filippo

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - San Fabiano, dinner a triumph for Count Filippo

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I know you are waiting to hear how the San Fabiano dinner went? Well Count Filippo claims it was the BEST food he has experienced since inviting guest cooking instructors in the last 5 years. Now that is a compliment! The appetite was stimulated by various Crostini. These are simply - Tuscan bread, toasted and topped with - Fresh anchovies from Sicilia with a fine shred of lemon rind. Next - Primo Sale, a ricotta type cheese with basil and extra virgin olive oil. Last but not least a simple Crostini rubbed with a garlic clove and then salt and finely chopped parsley

The most present ingredient in this whole meal was San Fabiano olive oil - robust and peppery with very distinct flavour.

First course was that creamy Risotto with Gorgonzola and Zucchini flowers. Not the usual Tuscan 'primo' but there was not one grain of rice left, and compliments from all guests. A rest in between courses as we slowly but surely reduced the red wine stock of San Fabiano's Cantina. Count Filippo's Sangiovese, is grown on his estate along with the olives for his yummy EVOO !

For the main course we chose Girella di Vittella ( rolled veal) gently cooked 'al umido'. This method is better than oven roasting as the meat retains it's moisture in a covered stovetop skillet. Also it creates a yummy ' reduction' to compliment the meat. ' Contorni ' - the pièce de résistance was Finocchio in Teccia grazie a Nonna Grison. Once again the method was stovetop. Zucchini warm salad and Insalata mista di Toscana fresh from the garden- perfect ending to a perfect meal.

Oh almost forgot Dolce!! Zuppa Inglese ( English Trifle) sufficiently pleasing to invite second servings.

Do you know why the humble English Trifle became Zuppa Inglese? Well the story begins in Siena in the 16th century. Maybe Count Filippo will enlighten you ? He could post a comment?

We are looking forward to more adventures at San Fabiano- and yes you can share them with us next Summer when we commence our program there. Meanwhile, these wonderful events start in Australia this September - stand by for further postings.

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Thermal Baths, Bagni Vignoni Siena

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[CUISINE ADAGIO] - Thermal Baths, Bagni Vignoni Siena

How to spend a lazy day at the thermal baths , Bagni Vignoni, in the countryside outside Siena ? Easy - just rent a deck chair, find a spot in the shade under a tree, and stroll over to the thermal bath occasionally and take a slow dip . The waters are therapeutic and very hot - 23 to 24 degrees - so you are forced to move slowly - not exercise. The hours fly, in an atmosphere only Italy can create. 

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